Back where it all began

We had planned to spend our last night in the tent at Glentana. We stayed at a nice campground there last time, just set back from the beach, lots of grass, good amenities. But when we left the Mountain Zebra National Park it rained for most of the trip and while we don’t really mind camping in the rain, packing up a wet tent is horrible, especially when we need it to be completely dry for the trip home. So we re-thought that idea and booked a hotel room in Mossel Bay, about 400kms east of Cape Town. We had dinner at Cafe Gannet and I had the seafood stew, a true bargain at 220 rand – about AUD$24. It had prawns, fish, mussels, calamari and half a crayfish! I have no idea how much it would cost at home – at least double, and probably a lot more. It was delicious.

We made a bit of a detour on the way back to Cape Town, to Cape Agulhas, southern-most point of Africa, and the point where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. It had rained on and off during the day, but we were lucky that it stayed dry while we hopped out of the car, read the plaque and took photos. After the mayhem of cars, buses and people at The Cape of Good Hope earlier in the year, we were very surprised that there were only a few people at Agulhas, and no tour buses.

And then the drive on the N2 back to Cape Town. It must have rained a lot recently – a couple of rivers and creeks had broken their banks, dams were looking full, water on flat low-lying areas. The rural part of the drive was just endless rolling green and yellow (canola) hills, and the livestock looked good.  Lots of heavily pregnant cows, and tiny white lambs. Even though it’s now Spring, there’s not much evidence around – we passed orchards where the trees still looked dormant, no blossoms or any hint of green yet.

We’ve done the big cull of stuff we aren’t taking home – 3 quilts, a set of fleece sheets, folding chairs, a spade, tent pegs, SA extension cord, a black denim skirt that I bought when I realised I didn’t have enough summer clothes (what on earth was I thinking – I hardly ever wear skirts!), the food we didn’t get around to eating and various other bits and pieces. Our Airbnb host has offered to take it all to an op shop for us.

Greg took the 4WD to be cleaned this morning and we have returned it and picked up another car that we’ll take back to the airport tomorrow. It was easier and cheaper to do that than get a taxi back to where we’re staying today, and then another taxi to the airport tomorrow morning.

So that’s it … another grand adventure almost over. Thanks for travelling with us. Sorry for the lack of musical accompaniment to this trip – internet access was mostly just too slow to be able to do more than write posts and add photos.

Our friend Wayne Manna is a keen musicologist and he made the following suggestion for our trip’s theme song. Thanks Wayne!

“The Great Heart” by Johnny Clegg. He is a British-born muso (and I think an anthropologist) living in South African who incorporates a lot of African themes into his music and has recorded heavily with South African musicians.”

Youtube link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlpKDYJRzMk

A selfie at the southern most point in Africa
A selfie at the southern most point in Africa
In case you can't read the plaque behind
In case you can’t read the plaque behind
While I waited for the car to be cleaned - these are everywhere in South Africa
While I waited for the car to be cleaned – these are everywhere in South Africa
Security at the AirBnB house we are staying at (hope there is no fire!) This is the steel security door in front of the Front door
Security at the AirBnB house we are staying at (hope there is no fire!) This is the steel security door in front of the Front door
Back Door steel grill
Back Door steel grill
One of the windows (all the windows have internal steel grills)
One of the windows (all the windows have internal steel grills)

Birthday lunch

No, it’s not my birthday, or Greg’s birthday. I spent my birthday driving part of the way from Jo’burg to Cape Town the last time we were here. For my birthday, Greg had tried to book us into The Test Kitchen in Cape Town, but it is booked out months in advance. As soon as we knew we were coming back, Greg emailed to make a booking and got us in. Which was pretty lucky as at about the same time as he emailed, The Test Kitchen made it to number 28 in the Top 50 Restaurants in the world. It’s also regarded as the best restaurant in Africa. It is now booked out until March next year.

We had lunch there yesterday and it was superb. Beautiful setting, in part of an old biscuit mill in Woodstock. The restaurant has an open kitchen and we were able to watch the 15 or so chefs at work. We sat near the dessert chefs who were baking micron-thin sheets of pastry and doing various other components of the 2 desserts, then later in service all the action was right there as 4 of them got busy plating up.

We decided to have the 7-course tasting menu and even though it sounds like a lot of food, it was ‘just right’ and we were hungry again by dinner time. It was all delicious, beautifully presented and very artistic with lots of different parts to each dish – foams, barks, crumbs, sauces. Greg took a photo of the menu, but I don’t think the resolution is high enough to be able to read. I didn’t make notes because each dish was very complicated and I wanted to just enjoy it all. You can read more about the restaurant and the food here . The service was excellent, the waitstaff knew all about every dish they served. I had a glass of wine, Greg stuck with water. The whole thing cost about the same as a not-very-fancy restaurant meal at home.

And then we went and bought a small mountain of food and other ‘essentials’ to go with the 56kg of camping gear we brought with us and came back to the apartment to cook the lasagne we’d bought at Woolworths the day before. Woolworths here is like David Jones at home. And to complicate things just a little bit more, David Jones at home is owned by Woolworths here.

 

One of the tasting courses
One of the tasting courses
the tasting menu (click for a larger version)
the tasting menu (click for a larger version)
Sprinkbok
Springbok Rose

Back to the other SA

We had such a great time travelling in South Africa earlier in the year that we decided to go back and see some more. This time we’re hiring a 4WD, so we can get to more places, although you may recall that we did take the ‘road less travelled’ a few times on our last trip.

We’re starting and finishing in Cape Town, and the basic plan is to drive north to Namibia, hopefully as far north as the Angola border, then head east to Botswana and see more of The Beautiful Country, then back to Cape Town. Alexander McCall Smith fans will note that we have given him a nod in the title of this blog.

Okay, plane’s boarding, gotta go xx